Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Day-2: Moidart

From Fort William I followed the road along the south side of Loch Eil to Glenfinnan (the site, in chronological order, where Bonnie Prince Charlie's supporters gathered for the '45 rebellion, an outstanding concrete viaduct, and a filming location for Harry Potter). Then further west to Glenuig and south past Loch Moidart.

The rain threatened on and off for most of the day, but it stayed away for all but the last ten minutes. As far as I can make out nobody around here has much faith in the official forecast, and certainly nobody I asked was prepared to commit their own opinion on what to expect. The general view seems to be that anything to do with the weather is pretty much unpredictable.

Having started off flat, the roads gradually got more hilly, which could be viewed as a thoughtful way of breaking me in slowly. By the end of the day I was travelling at a pace that allowed me to fully savour the dramatic landscapes. Or to put it another way, I was getting off and pushing up hills quite a lot. Of course if I hadn't packed for the different weather possibilities the bike would weigh less.

So if they fixed the weather and the hills it would be just like home?

Not exactly.

On the whole, even the most minor roads have good surfaces. There is very little traffic, and drivers are friendly and cooperative. If they reach a passing place first, they will wait for you. If you wait for them, they wave to say thank you. I ride past people in gardens who call out good morning, and expect a reply. On top of which there are constantly changing views of lochs, the sea, and distant mountains.

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